Avoid I-70 Madness at These Colorado Ski Areas
Our Ski Cooper season passes give us three bonus days of skiing and riding at each of four other Colorado ski areas, including:
- Loveland Ski Area (I-70 near Georgetown)
- Monarch Mountain (Salida)
- Powderhorn Mountain Resort (Mesa)
- Sunlight Mountain Resort (Glenwood Springs)
So after Ski Apache, Angel Fire and Red River in New Mexico, we continued north into Colorado to ski all but Loveland.
Loveland typically operates into the first week of May, so we’re saving our Loveland bonus days until then. We want to keep our ski season going as long as possible!
Plus, I absolutely loathe driving I-70 between Denver and Summit and Eagle Counties where Loveland happens to be. I’d rather ski there in late April or May when ski season has quieted down.
This article from Unofficial Networks might also encourage you to avoid I-70 during February and March. Since 2018, 630+ accidents occur on I-70 during those months alone!
At Ski Cooper, Monarch, Powderhorn, and Sunlight, you can steer clear of the worst I-70 madness.
February was our first time visiting any of these four mountains.
Our clockwise loop started with a week in the town of Salida. From there, we skied a sunny day at Ski Cooper and another three days at Monarch Mountain which included a bluebird day, powder day, and storm leftovers.
We spent another week using the town of Palisade as our home base and scored three powder days in a row at Powderhorn.
Sunlight was up next with parking lot living for two nights and three days of skiing. We got a mixture of sun and angry inches that were enough to keep conditions soft across most of the mountain.
We completed our loop by returning to Ski Cooper over Presidents’ Day weekend with a couple of cloudless days and a mini powder day. We bounced between trailhead camping on Tennessee Pass and conveniences in Avon and Gypsum.
Here are some of our takeaways from each ski area and what we learned about overnight camping in our van:
Ski Cooper (Leadville, CO)
Not to be confused with Copper Mountain.
We committed to Ski Cooper passes for the 2023/24 season because their early bird rate was only $379.
Not only is Cooper’s pass cheap, it includes over 175 bonus days of skiing and riding at other partner resorts!
For years, Cooper has maintained relationships with ski areas all over the country, and this season, they joined Powder Alliance. Their pass is one of our new favorites for a winter road trip.
You can avoid crowds during Presidents’ Day weekend. Saturday of the holiday weekend had zero clouds and a few inches of fresh snow, and Cooper’s parking lot was nowhere close to half full when lifts started spinning. We only waited in one short lift line for first chair. And it was easy to get outdoor seating on the Ridgeview Cafe deck during lunch hour.
It’s great for family and friend groups. There are runs for a range of ability levels which funnel into two main areas. It’s hard to get separated from your people.
You never have to take more than one lift to get back to Cooper’s main ridge, which means every run utilizes a large percentage of their 1,200-foot vertical.
Tennessee Creek Basin’s glades are fun to lap on a powder day, even though the only way out is the Little Horse T-Bar. You can find fresh lines for hours.
Cooper is an intermediate skier’s paradise. It is not for people looking for consequential terrain.
Employees are super friendly and upbeat. Little Horse T-bar lifties were especially patient with those that did not know how to use a T-bar.
Parking attendants kick ass at their job. Their system is efficient, and you don’t have to worry about getting blocked in by other vehicles. You might be surprised how often we see this happen at other ski areas even when parking attendants are present.
Ski Cooper does not allow overnight RV camping. We asked employees at two different ticket windows and both said no.
There are also signs in the parking lot closest to the lodge that say no overnight camping is allowed. You won’t notice them as you drive in, but you should see them as you drive out.
Here’s why I think people say you can camp in Ski Cooper’s parking lot, though. Tennessee Pass Nordic Center is in the same parking area as Ski Cooper. As you enter Ski Cooper, you’ll see a sign that says “Overnight Parking” to your right in the trees. That parking is technically for people staying overnight in the Nordic Center’s sleeping yurts, but it’s unlikely someone will say anything if you sleep in your RV. We definitely saw a Class C and other vans taking advantage.
Other camping options
Tennessee Pass Trailhead. A US Forest Service parking lot across the highway from the entrance to Ski Cooper. It is primarily used by people staying at the 10th Mountain Huts. Parking is level and two vault toilets are available.
Downtown Leadville. 20 minutes from Ski Cooper. I noticed a few vans parked on the main highway that were likely occupied overnight. I didn’t see any signs that explicitly prohibit overnight parking. Stay at your own risk!
Monarch Mountain (Salida, CO)
Throughout our travels, a few people we’ve met have shared their fondness of Monarch Mountain, so it was high on my list of resorts to visit.
Our first attempt a few years back was aborted after the diesel heater in our Winnebago Revel crapped out. We’re so happy our second attempt came with nearly a foot of fresh powder.
Parking is easy for vans and RVs. Parking attendants direct oversized rigs to line up along the snow closest to the Garfield lift, making it easy to get out of the parking lot later.
Rigs of all sizes are welcome. A roughly 40-foot Class A was parked next to us. I would just show up by 8 am if your rig is that large.
Even when Monarch’s parking lots are full, the mountain is uncrowded. First chair on a Sunday powder day was pretty tame, and we never waited more than a couple of minutes on any chair throughout the day.
Monarch has many gladed runs. My favorite! It’s easy to see your options from the base area and as you move about the mountain. Also kind of a downside because nothing is hidden.
Black runs off the Panorama lift are legitimately steep. Your edges have to come off the snow when turning in some places, and if you want to catch air, there are minor cliffs and baby chutes. The steepest sections can be avoided if your skills and nerve aren’t there yet, though.
Two lifts are required to reach the top. Since Monarch’s vertical drop is 1,162 feet, runs feel kind of short if you just ride Panorama, Monarch’s highest lift.
The local town of Salida is a must do. I’ve put it on my list of favorite towns in the West.
While Monarch is only a half hour from downtown, Salida sits about 3,700 feet lower than Monarch’s base elevation of 10,790 feet. Snow doesn’t survive long, so you can hike and mountain bike year-round.
We took advantage of the mild climate by hiking Arkansas Hills and walking downtown.
Salida Downtown Historic District is also the largest historic district in Colorado. There are many shopping and eating choices.
Monarch does not allow overnight RV camping. Signs prohibiting camping are posted all throughout their base area, and there is a large flashing digital sign as you enter the parking lot.
Other camping options
Downtown Salida. I saw some of the same vans parked there almost every day, and they looked like they were occupied overnight. I also didn’t see signs explicitly saying that you can’t park overnight. However, parking is prohibited during certain hours along some curbs. Stay at your own risk!
Monarch Spur RV Park & Campground. 10 minutes from Monarch. Since they came under new ownership, reviews are highly positive. I loved the clean showers and it was easy to reserve a last-minute site at the end of our ski day. The only downside is their canyon location. Daytime sun is limited resulting in a lot of persistent snow and ice throughout the campground.
Salida / Mt. Shavano KOA Journey. 15 minutes from Monarch. Our KOA Rewards get us a 10% discount. We haven’t stayed in several years now, but back then, their showers were clean, front office staff was friendly, and I remember it being windy every day.
Salida RV Resort. 30 minutes from Monarch. We love this RV park because they get maximum sun for beating winter blues, border the Arkansas River, are a short drive to downtown Salida, and have fancy clubhouse facilities. Our CampersCard also gets us a 10% discount Sunday through Thursday nights. And Pizza Rio will deliver New York style pizza directly to your site.
Powderhorn Mountain Resort (Mesa, CO)
Powderhorn is going down as one of my favorites of this ski season. Three powder days have a lot to do with it, but Powderhorn offers so much more that I wasn’t expecting.
Powderhorn is located on the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway. I had no idea our commute was going to include a canyon and a river that is reminiscent of Utah’s more popular canyon country. So beautiful! Once you emerge from the canyon and arrive at Powderhorn, the view from the parking lot is huge.
West End lift is where you want to be on a powder day. We were bottoming out on ice taking our first powder turns around the Flat Top Flyer lift, so we were nervous about the rest of the day. But then we traversed over to West End. We were relieved that conditions were much softer over there.
West End is practically empty on a midweek powder day. I assume because it only serves advanced terrain. The trail map shows intermediate runs, but when there’s fresh snow, almost everything is ungroomed. When we left at midday, there was still plenty of powder.
The glades at West End were loaded with perfectly-spaced, large Aspen trees. Mini drops could be found throughout making it very bouncy and playful with fresh snow.
The West End lift is slow. It’s a long lift that doesn’t move fast. After several laps, I would start to get cold, but it was great for resting our legs between powder runs.
Powderhorn has a 1,650-foot vertical drop. While I don’t know the exact stats, both of their major lifts seem to achieve the entire vertical.
If you’re looking for a vibrant après ski scene, Powderhorn won’t be for you. The town of Mesa is teeny. And even though we stayed a half hour away in the larger town of Palisade, it was a sleepy area. Palisade is wine and rafting country, so I expect that it’s a more happening place in spring and summer.
Stay in Palisade for snow-free activities. Their weather reminded us of Salida. The local Palisade Rim Trail is used year-round for hiking and mountain biking and has a few different loop options. We even stumbled upon petroglyphs that we didn’t know would be there.
Powderhorn does not allow overnight RV camping. I called and asked and they said, “technically, no”.
With that said, your best bet is their fourth parking lot. It’s the dirt area to your right after you turn into Powderhorn at the four flags. If you reach the three paved parking lot tiers closest to the base area, you’ve gone too far. The fourth lot really isn’t obvious until it’s occupied because there are no signs. Stay at your own risk!
Also of note, there is no snowplowing at night in the town of Mesa or around Powderhorn. There is an obvious sign as you enter Mesa. If there’s a snowstorm and you have an emergency, it could be problematic.
Other camping options
Turnouts on CO-65 on the way to Powderhorn. A few oversized turnouts won’t make you feel like you’re parked directly on the highway. While I didn’t see any signs prohibiting overnight camping, stay at your own risk!
Exxon truck stop off I-70 at exit 47. Just don’t choose a spot that prohibits trucks.
James M. Robb State Park – Island Acres Section. Also at exit 47. Facilities like showers are closed for the winter, but some sites offer electric. We drove by it at least seven times and never saw a single camper, only day users.
Palisade Basecamp RV Resort. 30 minutes in Palisade. They can accommodate rigs of all sizes, but they also offer van-specific electric sites in close proximity to their clean bathhouse and laundry building with both communal and private showers. We love their location amongst vineyards and orchards next to the Colorado River with mountain views. They are only a mile from the Palisade Rim Trail which is an easy walk along a low traffic road.
Tina and Tracy in the front office are beyond friendly. We felt incredibly welcome after two discouraging coal-rolling incidents in nearby Montrose. Palisade Basecamp participates in CampersCard and offers a 10% discount. If you stay a week, your last night is free. (The CampersCard discount and weekly stay discount may not be combined.)
Sunlight Mountain Resort (Glenwood Springs, CO)
I was keeping an eye on Sunlight via OpenSnow, and I noticed that their open status went from 60-something percent to almost 100 percent right before we arrived. I think the bump included the opening of East Ridge for the first time all season. East Ridge is Sunlight’s most advanced/expert terrain.
Midweek is uncrowded. Parking closest to the base area never filled up, and nobody else was camped with us overnight.
A 30-inch base is enough to sample most of the mountain, including East Ridge. We weren’t lucky enough to get a powder day, but some light snow and cold temperatures kept conditions favorable. However, we hit a few rocks in Tom J’s and Zephyr Glades, so we didn’t bother with any other tree runs.
They have one of Colorado’s steepest lift-served runs – The Heathen. It has a 52-degree pitch. I chickened out and took my line down the adjacent run (Rapid Transit) instead, so I could witness Kyle drop The Heathen from the bottom. Rocks and traverse lines across the steepest part were freaking me out.
You have to hike out of East Ridge or take Midland Traverse back to the base area. The traverse is an awkward cat track, especially rough for snowboarders.
Sunlight is great for beginners and improving intermediates. The bottom half of the mountain has extra wide trails giving everyone ample space to work on their skills. I also think the slope is as unintimidating as it can possibly be for a beginner while not being flat.
For beautiful views of Mt. Sopris and the Elk Range, stop at Leonard’s Lookout on Grizzly Road. You can’t miss the wooden arch. There’s a picnic table and some chairs if you want to enjoy a sack lunch.
Sunlight allows overnight RV camping. Their FAQs page states that they allow a two-night maximum stay.
Their website also says that you should talk to parking attendants about where to park overnight, but we didn’t see a single parking attendant during the three days we were there. I talked to Guest Services and they told us to park anywhere we wanted.
Other camping options
River Dance RV Resort. Almost directly in the middle of Sunlight and Ski Cooper. Sunlight is 50 minutes away, while Ski Cooper is about an hour. It’s also one of the best options if you’re skiing Vail or Beaver Creek. We like their clean, private bathrooms with their own shower, toilet, and sink. If you don’t need hookups, River Dance now has cheaper, van-friendly sites that are adjacent to a large, naturally grassy area, and the Eagle River is just beyond the grass.
Tip: There is a Costco in Gypsum that always seems to have the cheapest diesel fuel in the area. Membership required.
We discovered a new burrito favorite in Gypsum – Mi Favorita Tortilla Factory. The sign on their building actually says Fire Burrito Mexican Grill, but the easiest way to find them online was by using Mi Favorita Tortilla Factory.
This place is heavily trafficked but they’re fast. Tortillas are made fresh with your order and nobody speaks English well, but they’ll try. It’s a good place to practice any Spanish you know.
Final thoughts on Ski Cooper, Monarch, Powderhorn, and Sunlight
If you’ve already skied at world-renowned places in Colorado like Vail and Breckenridge, and you’re looking for less hassle and no lift lines, consider these mountains for your next ski trip. You’ll experience a quieter but equally beautiful side of Colorado. And powder days reward more fresh lines per person.
If you buy a season pass at any one of these mountains, including Loveland, each offers bonus days to all of the others. A loop that encompasses all five ski areas is just over 500 miles and 10 hours of driving. It’s a perfect two-week road trip that could be squeezed into a single week if you have less time.
