Winter Van Life: Purgatory Resort
Time of Our Visit: February 2020, Late April 2023
Our Colorado ski and snowboard experience had always been in Summit and Eagle Counties until we got to Hesperus and Purgatory. Southwest Colorado had been on my list for a while, as I had heard it was a much quieter corner of the state. It was peaceful and gorgeous as everyone had said.
Plan Your RV/Van Life Road Trip to Purgatory
purgatoryresort.com
#1 Skier Place, Durango, CO 81301
(970) 247-9000
info@purgatoryresort.com
Pass affiliation: Power Pass 2023/24
Hours of Operation: Open daily. See Purgatory’s Lifts, Trails & Grooming page for more information.
Mountain Stats
- Average annual snowfall: 260 inches
- Skiable terrain: 1,600 acres
- Vertical drop: 2,029 feet
Driving to Purgatory
US-550 between Durango and Purgatory is a pretty mellow mountain highway. However, if you plan on traveling north of Purgatory, expect a very windy highway with avalanche prone sections and no guardrails all the way to Ouray. The scenery is stunning though.
Parking at Purgatory
While we slept in the Lower Columbine parking lot, we drove up to Base Area Parking each day to be closest to Guest Services and the lifts.
Base Area Parking is on a slope. If you’re looking for a flatter spot, check out the road one level up from the main Base Area Parking lot where vehicles park parallel.
Purgatory’s lots can fill up on weekends, so arrive early.
Using Your Reciprocal Pass Benefits at Purgatory
We have Loveland season passes during this 2022/23 season which gives us 3 free days at Purgatory. It was very easy to go to any ticket window in the Village, show my Loveland season pass, and get an adhesive-backed ticket with a wicket.
Tips for Skiing/Riding Purgatory
See Purgatory’s Trail Map to follow along.
If you want to see the whole mountain and can ski/ride at or above an intermediate level, traverse to Legends Express and work your way back to the Village, especially if you only have one day. You don’t want to spend too much time near the Village to realize that you won’t make it to the other side and back before the end of the day.
If conditions are icy, I’d stay away from the single and double blacks below the Legends run. During our February 2020 visit, Siegele Street was groomed but so icy that it put Kyle on his butt the whole way down. Other runs we tried also weren’t so good. If lower parts of the mountain are icy but there was recent snow, you might find soft snow at the top of Legends Express. I spent most of my time between Paul’s Park and Boudreaux’s.
We really enjoyed spring skiing at Purgatory in late April this season, and they are continuing to stay open for bonus weekends all the way through May 14th! I was skeptical that only 2 of 9 non-surface lifts would be enough to keep us occupied for a half day. However, even the backside closed, Purgatory Village Express and Engineer Lift gave us access to a surprising amount of terrain for a fun day, including a significant number of long, advanced runs. It was perfect spring skiing since temperatures were in the 20s at night and it was sunny and hovering around 40 during the day. The snow within ungroomed territory was forgiving everywhere. No ice and nothing overly sticky either. We skied almost every run excluding most greens. I would definitely do Purgatory again if they only had those 2 lifts open.
Where to Sleep in Your Van/RV
Purgatory Resort – In February 2020, we stayed in the Lower Columbine parking lot after I called Purgatory and confirmed that this would be okay. However, after a visit in April 2023, the overnight RV camping policy is unclear.
I called Purgatory and asked about overnight RV parking a couple of days before our arrival. At first, I was told no, they didn’t have a place for us to park our van overnight. But then in the same conversation, we were told we could park it at our own risk. After reflecting, I think the person that answered my call thought that we just wanted to leave our van in their parking lot without sleeping in it. She mentioned that there were no gates to keep our van secure. But why would we need security for our van if we were going to sleep in it? I tried calling back, but I was having cell reception issues and gave up.
We decided to sleep in our van anyway, and we didn’t get a knock. However, I still wanted to be certain of their policy before posting it here. When we picked up our lift tickets, I asked the ticket agent if overnight RV camping was allowed as it used to be. He said he wasn’t sure of the policy or who to direct me to for a firm answer. He mentioned that there might have been an incident that soured the mountain on allowing overnight RV camping earlier in the season, but maybe it is okay now.
Also, the Upper Columbine Parking Lot has a sign that says “No Camping” and “No Overnight Parking”.
However, the Lower Columbine Parking Lot does not and neither does the Base Area Parking.
I did some research online and I’ve seen mixed reporting on whether or not other campers have had success staying overnight. My takeaway is this…I wouldn’t try it during a busy weekend, holiday period, special event, or during a winter storm and snow removal operations. Call ahead or ask around when you get there. Talking to Guest Services is probably a good starting point. Unfortunately, they were already closed for the season when we arrived in April 2023. Talking to a security person or parking attendant might also be helpful. Otherwise, it’s at your own risk.
Westerly RV Park – 18 miles / 25 minutes in Durango – We haven’t stayed here because I think the nightly rate is too high without showers. Showers are the main reason we choose to ever stay at an RV park.
Alpen Rose RV Park – 20.8 miles / 30 minutes in Durango – We noticed this RV park was open when we drove by in April 2023. They started offering sites year-round during the 2021/22 winter season after our first visit to Purgatory. They have daily, weekly, and monthly rates. Tents and truck campers are not allowed, and RVs must be RVIA certified with an affixed RVIA seal.
Oasis Durango – 34 miles / 45 minutes in Durango – This is a former KOA recently purchased by Roberts Resorts and they are now open year-round. Nightly, weekly, and extended stays are available In the off-season/winter. I happened to come across this RV park online by accident, so we have not stayed here or driven by it yet.
Working Remotely
AT&T cell service is excellent at Purgatory and downtown Durango. No need for a cell booster or to set up Starlink. Cell service could be spotty along US-550 between the two and non-existent if you head north of Purgatory.
Conveniences Near Purgatory
The town of Durango should have most everything you could need. It’s about a half hour to downtown from the ski area.
For groceries, we like Albertsons for earning fuel points. But there is also PJ’s Gourmet Market between downtown and Purgatory and 10 minutes closer to the ski area than Albertsons.
For showers, we like the Durango Community Recreation Center unless you’re staying at an RV park with shower amenities. During our February 2020 visit, the parking lot was almost full, but it was easy to occupy one of several showers. Per reception, if they’re not busy, you can use a private family room for your shower. Otherwise, the showers in the main bathroom area each had their own private space behind a curtain.
For a laundromat with shower amenities, check out North Main Laundry. There are other laundromats in Durango, but I picked this place because it seemed the easiest for parking our van. They also have coin-op showers but we haven’t tried using them yet. Reviews consistently state they are clean.
For a dump station, check out the Speedway Fuel Station on Highway 160. We used their dump station in February 2020. If you have a fixed propane tank, supposedly this place can fill it. Call (970) 259-2440 for more information.
Other Ski Areas Near Purgatory
- Hesperus Ski Area (Power Pass 2023/24) – 38.5 miles / 45 minutes in Hesperus
- Silverton Mountain – 27.8 miles / 50 minutes in Silverton
- Wolf Creek Ski Area – 111 miles / 2.25 hours on the Wolf Creek Pass between Pagosa Springs and South Fork
- Telluride (Epic Pass 2023/24) – 95.5 miles / 2.5 hours in Telluride
Other Winter Activities
Durango Hot Springs Resort & Spa – 18 miles / 20 minutes in Durango – Reviews for Westerly RV Park, which doesn’t have a bathhouse, suggested this place for a shower. However, nowadays, it’s a pricey place for just a shower ($39) and better for a hot springs soak to soothe your body after a day of skiing. Reservations are required.
Animas River Trail – 27.5 miles / 30 minutes in Durango – I discovered this trail by accident when we were at Albertson’s. You can access the trail directly from their parking lot.
Million Dollar Highway – US-550 between Silverton and Ouray, Colorado, is ranked in my top 5 most scenic byways in the western half of the US. Purgatory is also located off of US-550 and is only 22.5 miles south of Silverton.
The portion of US-550 between Durango and Silverton is also stunning and is part of the San Juan Skyway which overlaps with the Million Dollar Highway. There are many pullouts along the way and signs pointing out peaks and their top elevations. Don’t miss stopping at Molas Pass for 360 degree views.
If you are looking for a place to stay in your van/RV on the Ouray side of the Million Dollar Highway, check out Basecamp 550 in Ridgway. I think they might have my most favorite view from an RV park. Just book their “Scenic Full Hookup RV Site”. Rigs must be 25 feet or less to use these sites.
Mesa Verde National Park – 62 miles / 70 minutes near Mancos – Go back to the time of Ancestral Pueblo people who lived in the Four Corners region for more than 700 years. While tours to the cliff dwellings aren’t available in winter, a scenic drive will still give you viewing access of many structures. Weather permitting.
If you’re looking for a place to stay near Mesa Verde, check out Canyon Trails Ranch via Hipcamp.
Located in Cortez, they are only 35 minutes from the Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center and offer tent and RV camping, as well as shepherd camp wagons. They even have a flush toilet and a clean, hot shower. We’ve mentioned a lot of all-time favorites in this article and this Hipcamp is another one. They have beautiful views and quick access to hiking trails in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. I can’t wait to go back for horseback riding!
