Winter Van Life: Ski Apache

Ski Apache is one of two southernmost ski areas in the United States, beat only by Ski Cloudcroft. Situated in the Sierra Blanca mountains of southern New Mexico, it is owned and operated by the Mescalero Apache tribe whose reservation border sits adjacent to Ski Apache.

While you might assume a ski area so far south might be relatively flat and lack significant snowfall, Ski Apache’s 8-person gondola climbs to 11,400 feet above sea level and the mountain receives over 15 feet of snowfall annually. Plus, they have a true 1,900 foot vertical drop.

To help you plan your own van life trip, here’s everything we learned after kicking off our 2023/24 ski season at Ski Apache during Martin Luther King, Jr. weekend.

Trip Report: January 2024

The 2023/24 ski season was off to one of the worst starts in history across the entire US, and we were feeling pretty sour on the season’s meager snowfall. It was mid-January, and we hadn’t yet skied anywhere using our Ski Cooper or Indy Passes. Normally, our season starts no later than Thanksgiving, but we just weren’t motivated to share white ribbons of manmade snow.

We chose Ski Apache to kick off our season, which you might consider an odd choice due to its extremely southern location. We figured that if conditions were going to be crap at most destinations, we might as well tick off ski areas on our “never skied” list. Plus, we could explore cool cultural sites throughout New Mexico to offset any shitty ski experiences. I also have a connection to the Mescalero Apache tribe, so I was curious about where they reside.

Before our first day at Ski Apache, I didn’t look up mountain stats or peruse their trail map. All I knew was that they were a Ski Cooper partner and we could ski and ride free for 3 days. As Apple Maps was showing us getting closer to arrival, I was setting myself up for disappointment. It was mildly windy and I was convinced the snow was going to be unforgiving and icy. OpenSnow also told me that only about 60% of the mountain was going to be open so I figured advanced and off-piste terrain was going to be out of the question. On top of it, it was Martin Luther King, Jr. weekend and I was dreading crowds.

Ski Apache didn’t affirm any of my low expectations.

While the parking lot was filling up quickly once 9 am rolled around, the experience on the mountain was uncrowded. We never stood in line and we never shared a chair with another person.

When we departed the Lincoln Triple Chair #2 to take our first serious run of the day, I wanted to warm up on a blue groomer. However, our next stop was Triple Chair #1 which goes to the top, and to get there, our choices were a green cat track or an ungroomed advanced run named Terrible.

I shy away from cat tracks so we reluctantly settled on Terrible. I thought the name would suit the condition the trail was likely to be in. Not so! While tree tops and rocks were sticking out here and there, the snow was in excellent shape due to its north facing location.

And Terrible turned out to be a sufficiently black run. Sometimes smaller ski areas label runs with a black diamond but their steepness feels a bit more like a blue square. Ski Apache’s blacks deserve their rating. I was immediately excited to explore every corner of the mountain.

Because there are numerous ways to ski the entire mountain’s 1,900 vertical drop without taking more than a gondola ride, it felt like we had access to more than 750 skiable acres. Even with the south side lifts closed MLK weekend, including Captain Quad Chair #4, Triple Chair #6, and Elk Quad Chair #8, the mountain didn’t feel small.

Without chairs 4, 6, and 8, we could still access the upper blues on the south side with a little cat track skating. We didn’t see a single person, and we found a fun gully.

We skied almost every trail that was open and I’d say my favorites were Terrible, Gondola Lift Line, and Lincoln Lift Line.

Southern New Mexico skiing is graced with a lot of blue skies and sunshine, and we were happy to start the season without the gloomy clouds that often permeate ski areas. We’re eager to go back when Ski Apache is a hundred percent open.

Mountain Information

skiapache.com
1286 Ski Run Road, Alto, NM 88312
(575) 464-3600

Lift operations: Typically Thursday through Monday, 9 am to 4 pm. For the most up-to-date schedule, visit Ski Apache’s website. If you scroll down the home page, you should see a basic schedule by month and the current date’s lift status.

Pass affiliation: Ski Cooper 2023/24

Tip: I tried calling Ski Apache on an off day, but I only got voicemail. The time allowed to leave a message is brief, so if you call, be ready to just leave your name and phone number. Otherwise, a beep will cut you off and you’ll have to call back again.

Mountain Stats

• Annual snowfall: 180 inches
• Skiable terrain: 750 acres
• Vertical drop: 1,900 feet
• More stats

Driving to Ski Apache

To get to Ski Apache, you’ll drive NM 532 which is a 12-mile, two-lane mountain road. It starts in the town of Alto at 7,550 feet and you’ll gain about 2,000 feet in elevation.

While the gain is significant, the steepness didn’t feel intimidating. The switchbacks help to keep the ascent gradual. Our van didn’t struggle going up, and I didn’t feel like it was trying to run away on the way down.

Don’t get me wrong though, for some people, this road might feel treacherous.

There isn’t much of a shoulder, the road is eroding away in places, and there are very few pullouts. People driving a wide rig might find passing opposing vehicles a little scary due to the narrowness. Originally, I wasn’t going to recommend that any vans or RVs wider than a Sprinter van attempt this drive, but we did see a Class C at Ski Apache that was probably about 28 feet long. Also, a shuttle bus goes to the ski area from the Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino that I estimated to be about 30 feet long.

If you don’t want to drive to Ski Apache, I suggest contacting Inn of the Mountain Gods about a park and ride option. Their website says they offer a shuttle daily, but it’s unclear if you have to be a hotel guest and I couldn’t find a schedule.

If you do drive, stop at the Windy Point Vista for a photo. It’s unsigned, but it’s the only significant parking area on the south side of the road so it’s hard to miss. It’s about 9.5 miles up the road from Alto.

Parking at Ski Apache

The Ski Apache FAQS page says that parking is free for season pass holders, but that others might pay $15 to $25. However, nobody was collecting money when we entered the ski area on both days that we visited, and nothing was mentioned when we went to the ticket window. To be on the safe side, I’d be prepared to pay. Bring cash. Otherwise, call Ski Apache ahead of time to confirm at (575) 464-3600.

Parking is very obvious. When you arrive at the ski area, you’ll see a Ski Apache sign made of wood and painted red.

You’ll want to enter to the right of the sign to be closest to the lodge. However, if parking on the north side of the lodge is full, Ski Apache will close the gate, forcing you to enter to the left of the Ski Apache sign. You’ll be one level up from the lodge, but if you continue straight, the road will loop around to the south of the lodge.

Also, if you enter to the left of the Ski Apache sign, you’ll see a steep driveway to your left that goes to more parking. This parking area was primarily unused during our visit.

If you arrive before parking attendants start guiding vehicles, I suggest backing in along the perimeter of the parking area. Employees vehicles will likely already be there to give you an idea of where to park.

Tip: There were many speedy and impatient drivers during our visit making the parking lot rather unsafe. Many drivers ignored parking attendants, were passing other vehicles at unreasonable speeds, and tailgating. Pay close attention to what moving cars are doing around you as you try to find a parking spot. A few times we observed a vehicle stopping so they could reverse into a spot, but the person behind them was following too close. We were surprised that after two days, we didn’t witness a collision.

How to Use Your 2023/24 Ski Cooper Pass

Ski Apache offers 3 free days of skiing with no blackout dates to Ski Cooper pass holders during the 2023/24 season.

To redeem your benefits, go to the far right window at the outdoor ticket office.

The sign on the window might say closed. If so, go to any other open window and the agent will alert the person working the far right window. Make sure to bring your Ski Cooper pass, Ski Cooper benefits card, and a photo ID. You’ll be given a printed lift ticket and a zip tie. The ticket is not scannable, so just make sure it’s attached to your person in an easy to see place for the lift attendants.

You must return to the ticket office on each of the 3 days you want to ski/ride for a ticket.

Lift & Trail Navigation Tips

While the Gondola takes you to the tippy top of the mountain, you don’t have to take the Gondola to get there. If the Gondola line is slow or closed, you can take Lincoln Triple Chair #2 to Triple Chair #1 instead. The top of Triple Chair #1 drops off in the same area as the Gondola. It’s a short uphill walk if you want to see the view at the top and eat at the yurt there.

The Gondola is about a 10-15 minute ride. While the line was never long during our visit, loading is slow due to the time between cars. It’s nice to say we at least did it once, but we preferred to just take #2 to #1 for a ride to the top. If you want to do the Gondola once, it seemed easiest to walk on immediately after it opens at 9 am. First thing in the morning also seemed like the best time if you want a Gondola car to yourself.

From the lodge, Lincoln Triple Chair #2 is an uphill walk in the snow. If you’re feeling lazy, take Quad Chair #3. It’s a short ride up, and then you can ski downhill to #2.

Unrelated Tip: If you can hold it, skip the bathrooms near the bottom of Triple Chair #1. Use the facilities at the lodge.

Cell Service at Ski Apache

Ski Apache had pretty decent AT&T cell service in their parking lot and throughout the mountain. I was able to send and receive texts, make phone calls, and book an RV park reservation online without any issues. However, I might question how reliable it would be for an online video call. The service seemed to vary throughout the parking lot.

Other Ski Area Tips

Ski Apache offers secure racks to lock up your skis and boards at the base. If you walk past the Gondola toward the other lifts, you’ll see the ski/board racks with locks to your right. We didn’t use them but it seems like it’s easy enough to insert fifty cents (two quarters) and take a key for unlocking your gear later.

Crowd Factor

While the lodge level parking lot was almost full on the Sunday of Martin Luther King, Jr. weekend, it never reached full capacity. The upper parking lot was practically empty. On Monday of the same weekend, the main lot was only about half full.

We never stood in a lift line, and we never sat with anyone on any lifts, including the gondola. However, I would say that if you end up sitting with anyone, it will likely happen on the gondola. The line never seemed to grow longer than a couple of dozen people, but the time between cars is longer than any gondola you might be used to. To keep the line moving, you might have to sit with someone.

We rarely shared a trail with anyone aside from cat tracks and towards the bottom of the mountain in the beginner areas. It was great for taking long, arcing turns on groomers.

Overnight Camping

Ski Apache – The ski area does not have an official policy about camping in their parking lot. However, when I inquired at the ticket window, they said it would be fine for us to sleep in our van. I just needed to confirm if we were going to stay, so the appropriate people could be notified.

However, a big caveat is that you will be locked behind a gate at the ski area once all employees and guests vacate for the day and until employees arrive the next morning. In the event of an emergency, this could be problematic.

Being at the top of a mountain by ourselves was concerning, so we stayed in Ruidoso. If there was a town within walking distance, we might’ve felt differently.

Forest Service Road 127A – 25 minutes – This dirt road is 9.5 miles from Ski Apache on the north side of NM 532. I’m unsure what the rules are about overnighting there, but we did see the same RV parked there two days in a row and it looked like it had been there much longer. To locate the road, map “North Cedar Creek Trailhead” in Google Maps. I don’t often recommend boondocking in the winter due to potentially snowy and muddy road conditions. Please go with caution and have a backup plan.

Midtown Mountain Campground – 35 minutes in Ruidoso – If you need full hookups, are looking for a shower, or need to do laundry, this is an excellent option. The showers were cleaned daily and the park is within walking distance of Ruidoso’s downtown full of shops and restaurants.

Valley of Fires Recreation Area – 1 hour in Carrizozo – It’s very rare for a BLM campground to offer electric and water hookups, a dump station, and showers. It was very cheap for the number of amenities included and we thoroughly enjoyed the sweeping views and walking through the adjacent lava flow.

Closest Towns to Ski Apache

Alto is the closest town to Ski Apache with a gas station, a few restaurants, and a snow tubing hill. But Ruidoso is where you’ll find the most conveniences and entertainment and is about a half hour from Ski Apache.

I was actually surprised at the size of Ruidoso’s downtown and its walkability. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but you could certainly make a day of exploring this tourist spot on foot. If you go during a holiday, expect to find many vacation goers. Most restaurants had lines on Saturday during MLK weekend.

Note: Ruidoso’s downtown is a tight squeeze for larger rigs. Sudderth Drive (NM-48) is a 4-lane road with parallel parking on both sides for much of the downtown area. I personally found driving in the left lane to be safest to avoid being squeezed in the right lane by cars in the left land and parked cars along the curb.

Also of note, there are speed humps throughout Ruidoso that are technically painted for visibility. However, during our visit, the paint was mostly worn off, so they were difficult to spot. There are signs posted but for some reason, some of the signs didn’t align with the actual hump.

Where to Eat & Drink Near Ski Apache

You would think that being in New Mexico, we would’ve been looking to try New Mexican food. But after our first day of skiing, we were craving cheeseburgers.

Anaheim Jacks – 35 minutes in Ruidoso – We tried this restaurant because it was one of a few places open in Ruidoso on Sunday of Martin Luther King, Jr. weekend. We were fortunate to find a parking spot, but there were many large families waiting for a table. I asked about takeout, but they were too busy to accommodate us. We checked around town for other options with no luck, so Kyle ended up with homemade curried lentils instead.

Parking tip: Make sure you follow Anaheim Jacks’ parking lot clockwise around the restaurant. If it’s busy, you might have trouble in a rig longer than 20 feet. There are a few parallel spots in the rear against a wall that might make parking easier.

Hall of Flame Burgers – 40 minutes in Ruidoso- After failing to find a cheeseburger the day before, we ended up here. We ordered takeout over the phone to shorten our wait time. I’d say only about 15 minutes elapsed from the time of my phone call to having our to-go bag in hand. While it wasn’t too busy on Monday of a holiday weekend in the mid-afternoon, you can tell this place can get slammed. Service was very fast and efficient though, and the woman working the register was a multi-tasking expert. The burgers did a good job of satisfying our craving.

Parking tip: Hall of Flame Burgers is located in Midtown Ruidoso (downtown). You might be lucky to find a parallel parking spot on Highway 48 (Sudderth Drive) within walking distance. If not, turn down Eagle Drive (north). There is a parking lot behind their building and on the east side of Eagle Drive. If you continue past both of those parking lots, there is very easy parallel parking in front of the Ruidoso River Resort on the east side of the road about a block away.

Pena’s Place – 40 minutes in Ruidoso – I really did want to try some Mexican food being so close to the border, and I was eyeing this restaurant due to its long history in Ruidoso and its close proximity to Midtown Mountain Campground where we were staying. Sadly, it was never open when we weren’t skiing, so we missed it. But I’m noting it here to remember it for next time.

Where to Get Fuel

If you’re looking for fuel, check out the Casino Apache Travel Center in Ruidoso. They seemed to consistently have the cheapest fuel during our visit. Plus, they offer the easiest entry/exit for rigs of all sizes. Otherwise, there is a fuel station at the bottom of NM 532 before you ascend the mountain to Ski Apache. Ruidoso offers several options as well.

If you happen to be traveling through Mescalero, Mescalero Gas Company had even cheaper fuel.

Things to Do Near Ski Apache Besides Skiing

• Explore Midtown Ruidoso
• Go snow tubing at Ruidoso’s Winter Park
• If you don’t plan on skiing, take a scenic gondola ride at Ski Apache
• Stop by the Billy the Kid National Scenic Byway Visitors Center in Ruidoso Downs and drive the scenic byway

Closest Ski Areas to Ski Apache

• Ski Cloudcroft – 90 minutes in Cloudcroft
• Sandia Peak (Power Pass 2023/24) – 3.5 hours near Albuquerque
• Ski Santa Fe – 4 hours in Santa Fe