Winter Van Life: Blacktail Mountain Ski Area

Time of Our Visit: Mid-March 2023

Blacktail Mountain is located in northwestern Montana in the unincorporated community of Lakeside and sits almost 4,000 feet above Flathead Lake. It’s one of a handful of mountains where you start your day at the top and ski down to your first lift ride.

What We Love About Blacktail Mountain

The internet wasn’t lying when it told me Blacktail has the most friendly and helpful employees. Everyone was so welcoming from the ticket office to the lifties to the sport shop, and they did their jobs with a smile.

I didn’t realize how high up in the mountains Blacktail resided. Their views encompass Whitefish Mountain Resort, Glacier National Park, Flathead Lake, Mission Mountain Range, and Cabinet Mountains. Their beautiful setting was totally unexpected.

Many ski and ride Blacktail to escape the crowds found at nearby Whitefish Mountain Resort. We never waited in a lift line and there were many occasions when we had a trail all to ourselves.

I think Blacktail Mountain is perfect for practicing your progression as a skier or rider. You don’t have to go from what you find super easy to what you find super overwhelming in one run. Blacktail has runs to slowly challenge your comfort level and help you step stone your way up. Beginners, intermediates, and advanced riders can all benefit. If you’re a strong intermediate or advanced rider that feels comfortable on steeper groomed trails but you want to sample ungroomed terrain, Blacktail has options for dipping your toe without getting in over your head.

Plan Your RV/Van Life Road Trip to Blacktail Mountain

blacktailmountain.com
13990 Blacktail Road, Lakeside, MT 59922
(406) 844-0999
skiing@blacktailmountain.com

Pass affiliations: Powder Alliance 2023/24, Indy Pass 2023/24

Operating Schedule: Blacktail’s operating days can be found on their Events page. They appear to always be open on Saturdays and Sundays. Midweek is variable and flexible with snow conditions. I couldn’t find any place on their website that says what time their lifts open and close. During our visit, it was 9 am and 4 pm.

Mountain Stats

• Terrain: 1,000 acres
• Vertical elevation: 1,440 feet
• Average annual snowfall: 250 inches

Driving to Blacktail Mountain

I don’t know why I was thinking Blacktail Mountain was a lower elevation resort. We have driven past the sign to Blacktail along Flathead Lake a few times, and for some reason my impression was that it was only a few blocks away once you turn off the highway. Not so! It is a solid 30-minute climb up a two-lane, windy road for almost 14 miles and close to 4,000 feet in elevation. The road turns to dirt pretty early on, though, not very noticeable when it’s covered in snow and temperatures are below freezing. I can only imagine what happens to the road when the snow starts melting.

I would not recommend a drive to Blacktail Mountain in a large RV. A vehicle up to 25 feet is probably okay, but I’d be more concerned with the width. If you’re in a slim van, that might feel comfortable enough. But a boxier Class C or an oversized truck camper might feel claustrophobic as you pass vehicles going in the other direction. We only saw vans and petite truck campers at Blacktail.

Parking at Blacktail Mountain

When you enter the ski area, you’ll pass the parking lots that make up the lower parking area first. If you keep going uphill, the lodge will appear on your right and you’ll be in the upper parking lot.

It is a small parking area that loops around to the left with the slopes to your right. When we were there, most people were parking perpendicular to the berm, some at a slant, on both sides of the loop road. However, on a satellite view, I’ve seen people park parallel to the berms. There were no parking attendants, so we found a local and backed in perpendicular to the berm next to them in a wide part of the loop. We wanted to make sure we had enough space to pull out because it’s a tight squeeze depending on how everyone chooses to park.

There are a few slope side spots in a dead end section that branches off the upper parking lot’s loop. It’s perfect for throwing out a couple of chairs on the snow, doing some people watching, and enjoying the views.

Tips on How to Ski/Ride Blacktail Mountain

See Blacktail Mountain’s Trail Map to follow along.

For beginners, you’ll want to stick to the Olympic Lift (3) whose top is close to the lodge. What I love about Blacktail’s beginner area is the wide runs and beautiful views. I think sometimes beginner areas end up in a hole at the bottom of the mountain where you miss out on the scenery. Since Blacktail starts at the top, everyone automatically has that mountaintop view.

If you’re feeling strong and confident enough to step it up, head to Crystal Lift (4) where the blues aren’t overly intimidating. Because Blacktail isn’t as busy as a ski resort like Whitefish, there’s plenty of space to practice your turns.

For intermediates, the Crystal Lift (4) is going to be your place. If you want to dabble in some groomed black runs, you can see some of the more advanced slopes from the chair making it easy to decide if you’re ready. The steepest sections are short so you get a brief introduction to something a little scarier without having to commit to a long trail.

For the longest groomed blues, head to the Thunderhead Lift (1) and check out Lakeside Run (1) and Emmons Ridge (12).

For advanced skiers and riders, you’ll have the most fun at the Thunderhead Lift (1).

Our favorite area was the ungroomed terrain above the chair’s mid-station. Check out The Glades (2), Badrock (3), Pochelon’s Powder (4), and Luna Bowl (7). I’d go straight to this area on a powder day. It’s not very obvious looking at the trail map, but there is a square in the middle of the chair line that marks the mid-station. Catch Long Branch (6) to get there.

For long black groomers, check out Snowblower (9), Meadow (10), and Damnation (11). These trails are significantly steeper and longer than the black trails at the Crystal Lift (4).

For tree runs, I liked Little Salmon (14) and Brady’s Ridge (29). Both were a little hard to find.

To find Little Salmon (14), pass through the terrain park at the top of the Olympic Lift (3). Some of the best snow was hiding in here.

To find Brady’s Ridge (29), take West Ridge (28) past the tops of Tail Dragger (24), White River (25), and Buck Snort (27). Hug the right side of West Ridge (28) and keep looking in the trees until you see the sign for Brady’s Ridge. There might also be a few tracks marking the way.

For the best views of Flathead Lake, take a ride on the Thunderhead Lift (1).

If you’re trying to get from the Crystal Lift (4) to the Thunderhead Lift (1), you don’t have to take the Olympic Lift (3). Take Trail Branch (20) from the top of the Crystal Lift (4) and ski past the bottom of the Olympic Lift (3) to Crossover (18). You might have to skate.

Trail Branch (20) on the map looks like a green run that might take you to the top of the Crystal Lift (4) from the bottom of the Olympic Lift (3), but it flows in the opposite direction. It flows right to left if you’re looking at the trail map.

Where to Sleep in Your Van/RV

Blacktail Mountain allows overnight RV camping with no amenities. An official policy is not stated on their website. However, when I called to inquire in March 2023, they requested that we park in their lower parking lot. There was no need to check in with anyone, and they don’t charge anything. If you read the section above about driving to Blacktail Mountain, I probably wouldn’t plan on bringing a large RV. I’d say Blacktail is better-suited for petite truck campers and vans. Call the resort before you go – (406) 844-0999.

The lower parking area is sloping, so we had to drive around a bit testing different spots. We were able to get our van level front to back. Left to right was still sloping, but we positioned the van so our heads would be uphill while sleeping.

AT&T cell service was unreliable in the lower parking area and primarily unusable. It was better in the upper parking lot parked directly across from the opening in the wood fence to the slopes. Texting and emailing were okay, but if you have some serious work to get done, Starlink is probably best or working elsewhere.

Edgewater RV & Motel – 14.1 miles / 35 minutes – We have not stayed here yet, but they are open year-round. We chose to stay at Whitefish RV Park (below) for showers and laundry because we had plans to ski/ride Whitefish Mountain Resort. The shower reviews for Edgewater were also questionable and the nightly cost was on the expensive side for a potentially crappy shower. AT&T cell service was working for us on the highway next to this RV park and around town, so I imagine it will work there too.

Whitefish RV Park – 43.3 miles / 1.25 hours – If you’re going to do Blacktail, we highly recommend a visit to Whitefish. It is in our top 5 favorite towns to visit in the West. We got stuck there for 4 months at the beginning of the pandemic and became very intimate with the area. We stayed at Whitefish RV Park during that time period and we loved that we could walk everywhere from our location. We rarely drove our van.

This RV park is no frills and while their bathrooms, showers, and laundry room are dated, they are always clean and the water is hot with good pressure.

If you want to reserve a spot the same day of your arrival, don’t make a reservation online. It’s better to call the RV park. We booked a specific site as we drove from Blacktail to Whitefish, but when we arrived, our site was occupied. The RV park had extended the occupier’s stay, but the reservation system wouldn’t allow them to take it out of inventory. Other sites that appeared available online were unplowed, which isn’t uncommon at many RV parks during winter. It’s probably a good rule to always call the RV park before arriving, especially when snow is on the ground.

Also, since Whitefish RV Park’s roads are gravel, they can get rutted when snow is melting. The exit route can have some especially deep ruts in winter, which we have no trouble navigating. However, if those type of roads make you uncomfortable, this might not be the place for you.

Denise, who manages the park, is the absolute sweetest. It’s worth it for us to stay there just to see her.

AT&T cell service works great here and all throughout the city of Whitefish. The RV park also has free WiFi.

Where to Eat Near Blacktail Mountain

Lakeside is tiny and a sleepy town in winter, but they do have a brewery – Tamarack Brewing. You’ll pass it on your way to Blacktail. If you miss the brewery in Lakeside, they have a second location in Missoula. The brewery has excellent online reviews, so it’s on our list of places to try in the future.

I have been on a search for a proper cheesesteak traveling the West, but I often end up with a steak sandwich where the cuts of beef are too thick and not reminiscent of the thin slices you expect in a Philly. In an unrelated search for pizza in Whitefish, I happened to come across this blog article that mentioned Jersey Boys Pizzeria. Looking at their menu, I noticed two cheesesteaks. The description of the J-Boys Cheesesteak said “thinly sliced ribeye”, so we decided to give it a try. It’s exactly what I wanted! I’d be curious to know what Philadelphians or Jersey cheesesteak lovers think. By the way, Jersey Boys has excellent pizza too. Our last time there, the sun was shining so we took advantage of their picnic tables in front of the restaurant.

Where to Find Conveniences Near Blacktail Mountain

Lakeside has a grocery store, Blacktail Family Foods, but Kalispell has the most options for fulfilling your RV and van life needs. Kalispell is almost an hour from Blacktail and 20 minutes north of Lakeside on US Highway 93. If you don’t plan on traveling north of Lakeside, Missoula is the best city for choices in the south.

If you need service or parts for your RV, go to Van City RV in Kalispell. We used them when we dewinterized our Winnebago Revel after we busted plumbing earlier in the 2019/20 season. We were afraid of discovering new issues upon flushing the antifreeze and filling up with fresh water, and we wanted a service person on hand to apply fixes right away. Fortunately, no issues were found.

If you have a Mercedes Sprinter and need service, DeMarois Mercedes Benz in Missoula is one of only two Mercedes in the state of Montana. The other is in Billings. Fortunately, both have Sprinter techs as not all do.

Our Winnebago Revel was towed to the Missoula location when our power steering hose popped off shortly after buying it – a recall issue that wasn’t yet identified as such. We were able to sleep in the DeMarois parking lot after being dropped off in the early AM, and they had us on the road within an hour of their service department opening.

We’ve also called the Billings service department when our new custom van built on the 2021 Mercedes Sprinter wouldn’t start in -20 degree weather. They gave us confidence that the issue was likely just our diesel fuel gelling and we’d be on the road eventually. After a couple of days, we were able to degel and our van came back to life.

Sightseeing Near Blacktail Mountain

Glacier National Park – 64.6 miles / 1.5 hours to the Apgar Visitor Center – Instead of driving the Going to the Sun Road, you can cross country ski or snowshoe it in the winter months. Primitive camping is also available year-round at the Apgar and St. Mary Campgrounds. Services are very limited in winter, so go prepared in case of an emergency. While you might generally assume bears are hibernating, it’s still highly recommended that you carry bear spray in the winter months.

Other Ski Areas Near Blacktail Mountain

• Whitefish Mountain Resort (Loveland Ski Area 2023/24) – 51.5 miles / 80 minutes in Whitefish
• Lookout Pass (Ski Cooper 2023/24) – 144 miles / 2.75 hours at the Idaho and Montana border on I-90
• Montana Snowbowl (Indy Pass 2023/24) – 124 miles / 3 hours near Missoula
• Silver Mountain Resort (Powder Alliance 2023/24, Indy Pass 2022/23) – 168 miles / 3.25 hours in Kellogg, Idaho
• Schweitzer (Ikon Pass 2023/24, Loveland Ski Area 2023/24) – 200 miles / 4 hours in Sandpoint, Idaho